La Storia d'Italia...Part III

Un ’Po di Tutto...

A Little of Everything

Welcome to the final installment of my 3-part blog on the history of Italy as seen through my pictorial map. In my two earlier posts I covered the prominent art themes of my illustration, namely architecture and mosaics. The remaining subjects are a mix of elements that serve to highlight the rich artistic history of the peninsula. 


Let's begin in Florence and take a look at the the beautiful fiorino d'oro, the gold Florentine coin in use from 13th to 16th centuries. The Florin features an image of the fleur de lis, the symbol of Florence and certainly an important icon of France and England as well. This delicately designed disk of gold was the dominant trade coin throughout western Europe at the time, securing Florence's position as the hub of commerce with great financial clout. Established by Julius Caesar, Florence, meaning 'flowering' or 'in bloom' was well named. A center for art and design during the Middle Ages and Renaissance as well as a living museum today, Florence continues to flourish as a city with deeply historic cultural and artistic roots.

While we're in the neighborhood, I'd like to talk about the decorative patterns that are shown in my map of Italy. The four corner elements and central rosette are based on a fabric pattern that appears in a Renaissance painting by Bronzino titled Portrait of Eleonora of Toledo and Her Son. Created in Florence in 1545, Eleonora is depicted wearing an elaborate gown with an intricate design. Based on the image of a pomegranate and symbolizing abundance, this pattern and others like it appear in the historic textiles of several European countries.


Originating in the Middle East, the pomegranate motif is a stylized and symmetrical design. Here it is surrounded by vines, tendrils and fleur de lis, perfectly suited to adorn the attire of a woman who was a great influence on Florentine society during her life. As the wife of Cosimo de' Medici, Eleonora was a leading patron of artists and instrumental in charitable endeavors as well. The pomegranate design lives on today, most notably appearing on fabric created by Mariano Fortuny, the master artist, fashion and textile designer of early 20th century Venice. Recently, the Philadelphia Museum of Art paid homage to the pomegranate pattern with their exhibit titled "An Enduring Motif: The Pomegranate in Textiles".

Heading northwest to Milano, we enter the Palazzo Brera to discover a curious bronze sculpture in the middle of the central courtyard. Standing almost twelve feet high, plus its ample base, the monumental figure, titled "Napoleon as Mars the Peacemaker" stands tall indeed, an over-the-top heroic figure of god-like stature. Striding forward with commanding purpose, the image of Napoleon is not without a certain humor. The original sculpture, in white marble, was created by Antonio Canova and now resides in England. Apparently, Napoleon did not think highly of the nude representation of himself and forbade it to be shown in public during his lifetime. This bronze copy in Milano was cast in 1811. What appeals to me is Napoleon's outstretched arm which cradles a gilded winged Nike perched atop a golden globe. So reminiscent of Hollywood award statuettes today. And the winner is...

Moving southward toward the western coast of central Italy we arrive at the ancient town of Tarquinia. An important region during Etruscan times, the tombs of Tarquinia are filled with lively frescoes depicting dancers, musicians, and all manner of flora and fauna. In the Tomb of the Leopards a flutist playing two pipes moves among the revelers, the folds of his colorful robe billowing out as he walks past.

Not much is known of the Etruscans. Possibly they arrived from Asia Minor, but their culture developed in central Italy around 800 B.C. Talented bronze and gold artisans, many Etruscan works of metal art were eventually melted down by the increasingly powerful Romans leaving terracotta sculptures and tomb frescoes as the main surviving links to this mysterious civilization.

L'ARTE DI VINO...THE ART OF WINE

In the three postings about my illustrated map of Italy we've covered a fair amount of art-related topics: from architecture and mosaics to sculpture, textile design and fresco. And then there is the artistry of wine.

The Italian peninsula is one of the oldest wine producing regions in the world. Early on, the Greeks made wine in Sicily, and the Etruscans cultivated vineyards in central Italy. Later, in the 2nd century B.C., the Romans advanced the art and culture of wine making by developing barrels for storage and creating glass bottles specifically designed to hold wine. The use of trellises and improvements to the Greek wine press can also be attributed to them.

But of course, after all the hard work it takes to create the wine, it all comes down to the simple pleasures of enjoying it, and the art of fine wine continues even after the bottle is opened. From bistecca alla Fiorentina to gnocchi al pesto, there is a tremendous array of fine Italian wines to complement any dish. Most wine drinkers are familiar with the well known Italian grapes such as Barolo, Barbera and Pinot Grigio. However there are hundreds of Italian varieties including the spicy Negroamaro from Puglia and the rare Sagrantino from Umbria. I have a small painted plate that was given to my parents by our relatives in Udine. Written on the plate, in the Friulian dialect of the region, is a toast "Viva il vin e la compagnie"...meaning "Here's to the wine and the company". Indeed.

LETTERS FROM HOME
My grandfather, Edoardo Steccati, enjoyed collecting stamps. An immigrant from northern Italy in the early 1900s, Edoardo corresponded throughout his life in the United States with family who remained in Italy. Whenever a relative vacationed in foreign country, they would send Edoardo postcards from their travels as well.

He kept his collection in an old wooden box from Italy. Shaped to look like a book with a spine, its cover is decorated with an incised design illustrating a peasant couple wearing traditional Italian clothing. The inside is filled with small identical matchboxes, and each carries a handwritten label in my grandfather's script: Bavaria, Union of South Africa, Italia, 25 little matchboxes in all, each filled with old canceled postage. The stamps that resonate with me are those from Italy that were created after WWII.

The 1948 airmail stamp showing the bell tower of Trieste really speaks to Italy's effort to rebuild the country which had experienced such intense destruction and hardship during the war. Issued by the Free Territory of Trieste, it features a teal green background with symbolic leaves and fruit of the olive tree in the foreground as a white plane rises over the city.

The Sibilla Eritrea stamp from 1961 is part of a set of Michelangelo-themed stamps, although this 30 Lire postage is the only one of the series in Edoardo's collection. Printed in a deep purple and depicting an image from the Sistine Chapel ceiling, this beautiful engraving reveals Italy's own appreciation of its wealth of great art and its willingness to use history as inspiration in the modern world.

As I continue to create new illustrated maps I look forward to sharing them with you. Arrivederci.

La Storia d'Italia...Part II

I Mosaici...Mapping The Mosaics of Italy

As we travel through my map of Italian art history, the intricate mosaics shown in the illustration are examples of this enduring art form found throughout the country. Strikingly beautiful, mosaics can certainly tell us much about Italy's history as well.

Along the northeast coast of the peninsula lies Ravenna, home to one of the most storied treasures of ancient mosaics in the world. Beautifully preserved and richly colored, these intricate masterpieces can be found in several sites including San Vitale, Galla Placidia Mausoleum, San Apollinare Nuovo and San Apollinare in Classe.

Constructed in the 6th century, the octagonal San Vitale retains a solid almost severe exterior, belying the glorious art it holds. Looking up at the golden halo mosaic surrounding the depiction of Emperor Justinian I felt the power of this great work of art. The ruler of the Byzantine Empire and conquerer of Ravenna stands before us with his eternally unblinking stare, a commanding presence in the stillness of the ancient basilica. On the opposing wall, a mosaic of Justinian's wife, Empress Theodora, gazes across the centuries toward her husband. The portraits of the royals, crowned with jewels and pearls, make it easy to imagine the pomp and ceremony surrounding their regal court.


Heading south, we arrive in Rome at Santa Costanza, originally built by Emperor Constantine in 350 AD as a mausoleum for his daughter. Unpretentious on its exterior, the interior is filled with delicately designed mosaics giving the space an airy, ethereal atmosphere. What strikes me about these mosaics is that they employ a pale background; the images retain a very crisp and defined appearance. Here, the vault and walls are covered with ornate swirls of olive branches, grape vines, fruit, floral and geometric motifs. Objects float, as if suspended in space: painted urns, bowls, doves, peacocks, mortar & pestle and other depictions of domestic life - each item lends its distinctive shape to become part of the whole design.

Herculaneum, known as Ercolano in Italy, lies on the southwest coastline of the boot, just southeast of Naples. Frequently overshadowed by the fame of nearby Pompei, the ruins of Herculaneum are an archeological treasure on their own. Of all the mosaics in Italy, these pieces truly celebrate daily life by elevating the mundane while offering a glimpse of how some Romans lived in the first century AD.

Herculaneum mosaics display a variety of subjects including domestic animals and a dining room depiction of food scraps seemingly tossed onto the floor. My favorite piece is the floor of the women’s bath house that depicts an octopus, lobsters and dolphins all surrounding a majestic Triton of the sea. I'm guessing that the sheer exuberance of the tentacles and dolphin tails created a memorable impression upon all who entered this space many centuries ago just as it still does today. The violent eruption of nearby Mt. Vesuvius in AD 79 covered the city and its inhabitants in mud flows and volcanic ash, abruptly destroying the town yet preserving it for future archeological discovery. It would be another sixteen centuries before the first rudimentary excavations of Herculaneum began.

The Villa Romana del Casale, located on the island of Sicily, is the site of the richest collection of late Roman mosaics. Arguably the most famous mosaic of the villa, my illustration depicts a group of female athletes competing in various sports. Wearing their chic two-piece athletic gear, this mosaic is often referred to as "The Bikini Girls". Here, winners of the sporting contests are crowned with flowers and bestowed with palm fronds. Created during the late 3rd century and the early 4th century AD, the remains of this once luxurious villa are home to a tremendous quantity of beautifully preserved mosaics including boar hunting scenes, whimsical designs (think cherubs fishing from a boat) and geometric patterns.

To view the full illustration, see Part I of my Italian History Map blog dated 4/29/10. I'll be posting the third and final installment of my blog dedicated to this map soon. Until then, I wish you "Arrivederci".

A Personal Map of Italy

La Storia d'Italia...
The History of Italy, Part I

To some, that might seem like an overblown title for a little pictorial map. I mean, just how much history can one illustrate on a map the size of a letterhead. Certainly I cannot claim to show the entire march of civilization through this amazing peninsula, but rather it is an example of some bits and pieces of Italy's cultural heritage that resonate with me. A personal history tour if you will.

Some of the icons shown on my illustration are destinations I have actually visited, others are places I might like to see someday, and yet other elements echo the rich design and artistic history of the country of my family.
 

Architettura

Italy's amazing wealth and diversity of architectural styles are in themselves a testament to the history of this part of the world. Here are a few of my favorites:

In the north, Venezia's Byzantine wonder, Basilica di San Marco, was begun in 1063. Situated on the island in the lagoon, the church forms one side of the Piazza San Marco along the Canal Grande. The Basilica itself is a glorious confection of delicately carved marble angels, gilded winged lions, the starry heavens mosaic depicted above the entrance and multicolored marble inlays everywhere. And that's just on the outside of the Basilica. Inside, the four original bronze horses reside, eternally posed in their high-stepping gate amid the stillness of San Marco. Overhead, golden domes cascade toward the Pala d'Oro, the Basilica's jewel encrusted golden altar. Heavenly indeed as the dark clouds gathered and rain pelted tourist and pigeon alike. Another day I shall wander the myriad winding streets of Venezia peering in the shop windows at the masks of Carnevale, the shimmering glass from Murano and the intricate lace created on the nearby island of Burano. Today it's all about the wonders of the Basilica. Late that evening, the rain clouds cleared and I danced in Piazza San Marco with the real stars glittering above.

Just west of Venezia, on the mainland, lies the historic city of Vicenza. Here, the surviving architecture of Palladio is on full display. Several beautiful examples of this Renaissance architect are sited in and around Vicenza. Palladio's elegant designs interpreted ancient classicism in a way that continues to influence architects to this day. His Villa Capra, called "La Rotonda" in reference to its central circular hall and dome, is sited on a little hill just outside of town. With four identical porticoes, each opening out to commanding vistas of the surrounding countryside, this ode to symmetry is truly one of Palladio's masterpieces. I can imagine living here. Looking east to the rising sun each morning, following the sun from room to room throughout the day, enjoying a Bellini cocktail in the evening as the sun sets beyond the western portico.

Roma...certainly a city with more examples of ancient and classical architecture than I could ever fit into one illustration. Il Foro Romano, the Roman Forum, contains many fascinating ruins, but one of the quirkiest has to be Arco di Settimio Severo. Known as a triumphal arch, this paen to the ego of Emperor Septimius Severus was constructed for no purpose other than to glorify himself, his two sons and his military victories. Built in 203 A.D., the arch is covered with marble slabs intricately carved with battle scenes, inscriptions and decorations. The odd historical tidbit: after Septimius died, his son, Caracalla, murdered his own brother, Geta, and then had all mention of Geta removed from the arch. Talk about dysfunctional families...

Later that afternoon I walked up the winding trails of the Palatine Hill adjacent to the Forum. The path was bordered by the crumbling chunks of marble columns, some incised with elegant serif letters. Here and there partially excavated ruins peeked out from the rocks and from behind the brilliant oleander blooms that lined my route. The sun was hot, the bees buzzed, and the scent of the pine was intense. With their narrow curved trunks crowned by deep green canopies, The Pines of Rome are a commanding presence above the Forum, elegant sentinels watching over the ruins. The hustle and hurry of modern Rome seemed a million miles away.

Heading down the back side of the boot that is the Italian peninsula, we arrive in Andria, located in Apulia. The Castel del Monte was built by the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II in the 13th century. An exercise in geometry, its octagonal shape featuring eight additional octagonal towers gives it a very stark, almost modern, appearance. The fact that it has been looted of its marble panels and mosaics over the centuries also adds to its bare bones aesthetic. The castle combines architectural styles from classical antiquity, the Islamic Orient and European Gothic elements. A scholar as well as a linguist, Frederick II spent some time in the Middle East during the Crusades. Apparently his sojourn there was a great influence on him.

Sicilia, the island off the tip of Italy's boot, is home to many ancient structures, two of which appear in my illustration; and these two buildings couldn't be more different from each other. Along the sunny southwest coast of the island, surrounded by fields and groves of gnarled olive trees, lies Agrigento and its Valley of the Temples. Renowned as the site of several ruins dating from when the Greek culture flourished here, the temples are in various states of preservation and excavation. Standing on a rocky plateau, Tempio della Concordia, built around 430 B.C., is the epitome of classic Greek architectural proportion and style. Named for Concordia, the goddess of peace and harmony, this Doric temple is one of the most well preserved ancient Greek structures in the world.

At the western tip of Sicilia, high on a mountain, sits the tiny hamlet of Erice. Overlooking the Tyrrhenian coastline, this picturesque town of castles, stone walls, cobblestone streets and steep cliffs appears very Middle Ages, although it is much older. The Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Greeks, Arabs, Normans and others all influenced the area over the centuries. On a craggy precipice sits Castello Pepoli. Built by the Normans in the 11th century, its foundation dates from even earlier Saracen times. Looking like a castle in a Grimm fairytale, the buildings had a dreamy, almost fantasy appearance when glimpsed through the thick fog that sometimes cloaks this mountain village. Alas, Pepoli Castle has recently been renovated (by the Pepoli family) and no longer appears as it does in my illustration when it sat for centuries as a mysteriously romantic, crumbling and forgotten ruin.

A subsequent posting about my History of Italy pictorial map will cover the mosaic icons and other design elements that are featured prominently in the illustration. Wishing you "buon giorno", good day, until then.